The current day archaeological area of Paestum was originally called Poseidonia. It was founded in the early sixth century BC by a group of Achaeans (Greeks) from Sybaris who took possession of the territory south of the river Sele.
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Temple of Athenia, c. 500BC Archaeological Area, Paestum
Temple of Saturn, c. 460-450BC Archaeological Area, Paestum
First Temple of Hera, c. 550 BC Archaeological Area, Paestum
The archeological site at Paestum covers several acres. While a thorough exploration of the site can take several hours, we zipped through in about an hour. Donato gave us a map of the grounds and explained the location and history behind each of the main structures. The ruins of the three temples are clearly the most dramatic structures on the site. It's interesting to note that while the temples are all originally built to honor Greek gods (Hera, Saturn and Athenia) they were later used as churches (one even contains Christian tombs).
Chris next to the Box Grave Archaeological Area, Paestum
Foundation to the Gymnasium Archaeological Area, Paestum
Amphitheature Archaeological Area, Paestum
In addition to temples the area contains the remains of civic buildings, the Roman Forum, a box grave, the foundation of the gymnasium and an amphitheater (last three are pictured above). Roadways through the area are clearly visible as well as the above ground tomb.
The artifacts found originally on the site have been removed and placed in the museum (across the road). As with other sites we visited, this protects the artifacts but takes away seeing them in their natural settings.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
Southern sanctuary, Poseidonia, near the altar of the Temple of Hera Archeological Museum, Paestum
Fresco from the Tomb of the Diver. 475 BCE Archeological Museum, Paestum
Wine & Water Mixing Pot painted by Python Archeological Museum, Paestum
Hunting Scene, Lucanian Fresco Tomb, 450 BC Archeological Museum, Paestum
Many of the artifacts from the Archeological Site have been moved to the Archeological Museum. The four pictures above are samples of the extensive display. While the contents of the museum are impressive, there are a couple of short comings. First, since the artifacts have been removed from their natural settings, they loose some of their significants. Second, the descriptions on all of the displays are in Italian (go figure). So...while the items on display are striking they'd be much more meaningful if we had an idea of what they are.
TENUTA VANNULO
On our way to Paestum we stopped at an unusual and, frankly, fascinating location. A water buffalo mozzarella farm. Founded in 1988 by Antonio Palmieri 200 hectare (a touch under 500 acres) business is dedicated to producing the finest water buffalo milk products, starting with their truly unique and very tasty mozzarella cheese.
Some chow and catching up on the latest gossip Tenuta Vannulo, Paestum
The rub-down station Tenuta Vannulo, Paestum
The 600 buffalo are fed with fodder raised on the farm. During our visit there were 50-60 of the cows in the paddock. We were told that they move about pretty much on their own. You can see from the pictures above that they spend their time laying about, having their backs scratched or being milked. BTW, the cows each decide when they are to be milked. Tracking them? They each have an electronic tag that is detected when they enter the milker. Their milk is then immediately tested. If there is any issue with the milk it is discarded and the cow is moved to the infirmary for appropriate care. They're able to track which cow produced a batch of milk and the production from each cow.
Why water buffalo? The flavor. If you like regular mozzarella, don't try water buffalo mozzarella. By comparison, mozzarella made from cows milk is simply tasteless.
The chunk of mozzarella before plunking Tenuta Vannulo, Paestum
`Casari` plunking cheese in the finishing room Tenuta Vannulo, Paestum
`Casari` showing the final product Tenuta Vannulo, Paestum
Our tour started at the final stage of the production. I know it's tough to see any details in the first couple of pictures above. They were taken through a window that reflected the outside light. The employees in the room behind the glass are "plucking" the final lumps of cheese from the larger curd chunks. Two "casari" work together. One holds the large chunk and feeds just the right amount to the second person to create the fist size lumps which are in turn wrapped for sale. Could this be done by machines. Probably. But not here. The cutting must be a hand process.
There is a limited production of cheese each day. When they run out, they simply close the shop. No commercial sales of any of their products. If they believe you're buying it for resale, you're out of luck. Want some of their mozzarella? Plan a trip to Italy.
Stephania describes the leather goods Tenuta Vannulo, Paestum
They do sell other products. They have a fine leather goods shop. The leather produced (from the excess male buffalo) is both very soft and beautiful. Not cheap but so unique it's probably worth the price.
Lunch Tenuta Vannulo, Paestum
Lunch Tenuta Vannulo, Paestum
Post lunch yogurt Tenuta Vannulo, Paestum
We also had lunch in their conference center and finished with a visit to their yogurt store.
It's a family run operation (his three daughters are all employees) and the owner says he isn't interested in expanding.
If you're in the area you MUST stop. Spend some time and make sure you make arrangements for a tour.
Highly recommended!
p.s. Other than yogurt and some cheese you may buy, there isn't a restaurant available. Our lunch was a special arrangement.
