We saw a bunch of these banners (all different, all hand made) throughout Matera. Little did we know of the significants. Less than a week after we left Matera, the city was declared the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Read all about it in this excerpt from the discoverbasilicata.com website:
Matera, located in the Southern Italian region of Basilicata has been awarded the title of the 2019 European Capital of Culture in Italy. The five other Italian cities shortlisted as finalists for the title were: Cagliari, Lecce, Perugia, Ravenna and Siena.
Androulla Vassiliou, the European Commissioner responsible for culture, stated: I congratulate Matera on its successful bid. The competition for the title in Italy was one of the strongest ever, with 21 initial contenders narrowed down to six finalists. I am confident that Matera will attract more visitors from Europe and all over the world to discover the city, its history and the cultural diversity which is one of strengths of our continent. I am convinced that the title will bring Matera and its surrounding area significant long-term cultural, economic and social benefits, as we have seen with previous European Capitals of
The European Capital of Culture started in 1985 where the Commission of the European Union choose a city that holds the title for one year. Matera now has four years to curate a programme of installations, activities and events to celebrate being awarded the 2019 European Capital of Culture. The programme must have a lasting impact and contribute to the long-term cultural and social development of the city. Previous winners of the title in Italy include Florence and Bologna. Since the announcement on Friday 17th October, actor Richard Gere who filmed King David in Matera passed on his congratulations for the city and commented Matera is a very special place.
The ancient city of Matera is steeped in history and is home to the famous Sassi, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back over 7000 years. While part of the town spreads out across the Murgia Plateau, the famed Sassi comprises cave dwellings and rock churches built on and dug into the sides of the Gravina Gorge which drops dramatically away beneath it. The cave dwellings of the Sassi are the most extensive example of their kind in the Mediterranean. Now, however, the Sassi district has gone through extensive re-development and hosts some incredible cave hotels, private homes and restaurants, lovingly restored to enhance their original features. Explore this complex and beautiful network of caves, churches, streets, stairways, archways and terraces on foot to best experience this atmospheric city.
MATERA AND THE SASSI
The way it looked circa 1950 (Post Card)
A Sassi cave actively occupied (Post Card)
Matera is a fascinating city. Basically there are two parts to Matera. The old part, called the Sassi, is a bunch of caves located in a canyon. These caves (with NO utilities,i.e., running water, electricity, sewers ) were occupied until the early 1950s. As you can see from the post card pictures above, the conditions were very poor. Not only did an entire family (as many as 10 or more) live together. They shared the space with their animal(s). People were so poor that (as we were told) a new baby might be sacrificed in favor of feeding their animals. Water may have been collected in a cistern, but its source was likely from the edge of the "road" on the layer above...obviously not very clean.
In the early 1950s the Prime Minister of Italy publicly declared that Matera was Italy's shame. The government forced the residence of the Sassi (the Ancient Town) to leave their homes and move to the "new" city (above the canyon). This may have seemed like the "right" thing to do but it wasn't a popular move for many of the residents. They were being forcefully removed from the only homes they had knows. One funny story (or maybe sad) story we were told was of a couple who moved into one of the new apartments. With running water, electricity, etc their new home also included an updated kitchen. Not knowing what they were supposed to do with the kitchen sink they chose to use it as a planter!
Since the residents were moved the Italian government took over ownership of the Sassi. Since then they have begun leasing portions for restaurants, hotels and stores. Our hotel is owned by the government through a long term lease. As you can see from the pictures of our room and the other facilities, it can hardly be considered cave-ish.
SANTA LUCIA ALLE MALVE
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Interior Diagram Santa Lucia alle Malve, Matera
Brochure (page 3) Santa Lucia alle Malve, Matera
The picture on the left shows the floor plan of the church. It's clear that the church grew to it's current configuration over a period of time. The chamber to the left was developed first followed by the addition to the right. The two post cards below show the rooms shown in the diagram. Take note of the artistry on the walls. Page 3 of the brochure (above) contains a close up of some of the best preserved portraits.
Older Side (Post Card) Santa Lucia alle Malve, Matera
Newer Chamber (Post Card) Santa Lucia alle Malve, Matera
From the website: The rock-church of S.ta Lucia alle Malve is the first female monastic Benedictine settlement, dating from the C8th. The community was an integral part of the life of Matera.. The exterior of the former monastic complex extends along the rock face with a series of access points leading to an equal number of internal cavities. Relief sculptures of the symbols of the martyrdom of St. Lucy, the chalice containing the Saint`s two eyes, attest to the Community`s earlier presence here.
The entrance to the church, on the right of the complex, is demarcated by squared blocks of tufa, which trace its line, ending with a pointed arch within a lunette inside which the liturgical symbol of St. Lucy can be seen.
Interior
It is a rock-church of considerable size, extending over a quite distinct nave and two aisles. The events that befell it after it was abandoned by the monastic community have left clear enough evidence to enable us to reconstruct its planimetric and architectural evolution, albeit with a little imagination. Of the nave and two aisles that articulate the internal space, the right aisle, where the present entrance is located, has always been open for worship, and even now on 13th December, the feast day of St. Lucy, a solemn Mass is still held here. The nave and left aisle, however, were turned into habitations and depots and remained as such until the 1950s. Almost all the rock-churches in the two Sassi districts suffered a similar fate as they were gradually replaced, liturgically speaking, by new places of worship in the new Piano district.
Santa Lucia alle Malve Via Lanera 14 75100 Matera Tel: 39.327.9803776 FAX: 39.345.9391659
SASSI IN MINIATURA
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Looking over the miniature display Sassi in Miniatura, Matera
Anna Lisa describes the display and Matera Sassi in Miniatura, Matera
From the creator's website: The wonderful Panorama offers great views of the ancient Matera. The Sassi Miniature Set in the heart of the Stones, with their structure disposed on a plane of 12 square meters and weighing 35 tons is the work ideal to discover the city of stones in a miniature unique. The Sassi in Miniatura are born from the work of skilled hands Eustachian Rizzi. Built in May 1996 working constantly for three long years now we have the chance to see this work in all its beauty and in all its charm. The Artist Eustachio Rizzi's premises via Florence, 82 in Sasso Barisano works and exhibits his many creations and unique works made ​​of tuff. The Staff of Rizzi Eustachio will be at your disposal to give information on the works and how they are inspired by, of all details that characterize the work of the Sassi miniature alleys, nooks, fireplaces and ashlar, and how the artist was able to recreate that atmosphere typical of the stones of Matera. Your holiday will be an unforgettable and wonderful experience as well.
I have to say the model looks just like the old city (as it appears from many of the overlooks). It's definately worth a visit.
Sassi in Miniatura Via Fiorentini 82 75100 Matera, Italy Tel: +39 0835 334031
THE GRAVINE RAVINE
Ravine dividing Matera from a neighboring hill
Looking across without zooming (note the circle) Gravine Ravine, Matera
Looking across with zooming Gravine Ravine, Matera
A walking trail across the ravine Gravine Ravine, Matera
Highlighted part of the walking trail zoomed in Gravine Ravine, Matera
You may have notices in the Sassi Minature Model that new Matera sits along the edge of la Gravina (the ravine). The Sassi was built along the slop of the ravine that leads to a small river at the bottom. When you're at the edge of the Sassi, (looking out toward the river and the opposite site of the ravine) you can clearly see what the area looked like before anyone settled on to it (the top picture).
To give you a sense of the size of the ravine and the two slopes check out the next four pictures. The second and fourth pictures are taken at the normal distance. The third and fifth pictures were taken at a significant zoom.
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The Gravine Ravine
IL TERRAZZINO RISTORANTE PIZZERIA
Settling in for lunch Il Terrazzino Ristorante Pizzeria, Matera
A better view of the terrace Il Terrazzino Ristorante Pizzeria, Matera
Taken from our balconey Il Terrazzino Ristorante Pizzeria, Matera
From our hotel at night Il Terrazzino Ristorante Pizzeria, Matera
This restaurant is located a short number of steps off of the main square. It's across the old-town ravine from our hotel. The food at the restaurant was good reasonably priced with a decent number of choices. The view is outstanding. Recommended.
Il Terrazzino Ristorante Pizzeria Vico San Giuseppe, 7 Matera Tel: 0835 334119 FAX: 0835 332503
L`ARCO OSTERIA
Dinner together our first night L'Arco Osteria, Matera
Denis taking movies L'Arco Osteria, Matera
Donato introduces the restaurants owner L'Arco Osteria, Matera
Carolyn, Mark, Deb & Bob L'Arco Osteria, Matera
Nellie, Lea, Craig, Rita, David and Sharon L'Arco Osteria, Matera
We ate together at a fine restaurant our first night in Matera. The food was classic Italian and very tasty. There was a good selection of wines (don't you just love Italy). As you can see from the pictures above we sat at smaller tables (most for four, some for six). The restaurant owner wasn't only present he was active in seating and taking orders. Recommended.
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L`Arco Osteria Via delle Beccherie, 49 75100 Metera Tel: 0835 334626 FAX: 339 3665858
TRATTORIA LUCANA
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Just sitting down for dinner Trattoria Lucana, Matera
Looking over the menu Trattoria Lucana, Matera
The front entrance Trattoria Lucana, Matera
We were on our own for dinner on the second night in Matera. We had a strong hint where the restaurant was located, but we spent the better part of a half hour going 10 minutes from the hotel. We arrived well before the restaurant opened and it was a good thing we did. Since we didn't have a reservation (strongly recommended) we were lucky to get a table. From what we could tell there was only a couple not reserved. As with the other restaurants we found the food very good. It's a popular place for a good reason. Recommended.
Trattoria Lucana Via Lucana 48 75100 Matera Tel: 0835 336117
LOCANDA DI SAN MARTINO HOTEL THERMAE
Our room from the entrance Locanda di San Martino Hotel Thermae, Matera
Looking back to the entrance Locanda di San Martino Hotel Thermae, Matera
Meditation room (yup the color changes) Locanda di San Martino Hotel Thermae, Matera
The swimming pool in the old cistern Locanda di San Martino Hotel Thermae, Matera
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Our hotel was located in the Sassi (old city). The rooms were purported to have previously been cave dwellings. As you can see from the first picture above, you'd hardly think of them as caves anymore. Our room was very large. The furnishings appears to be recently updated.Â
The rooms are located on various levels. To reach our room we first took an elevator followed by a walk up a ramp passing several of the other rooms along the way.
In addition to the beautifully appointed rooms there are also a number of amenities beneath the main entrance. Going down one level from the lobby you reach the swimming pool (the final picture above) Going down one more level you reach the meditation room (second to the last picture) and the hot tub. Along the way you also pass a sauna. Very nice.
Locanda di San Martino Hotel Thermae Via Fiorentini, 71 75100 Matera MT, Italy Tel: 0835 256600
