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Days: 0-4 - 14-16
October 4th-8th & 18th-20th
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Sunny and Warm
High: 77°-82°
Lo: 55°-59°
Averages:
High: 73°
Lo: 55°
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Euros
Conversion rate on
our visit:
€1.00 = $1.25938
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Trains

The Vatican

Rick Steves Rome

Vittorio Emanuele II Monument
                 
DAILY SCHEDULES
 

October 6th - Day 1
Daily Tour Notice

October 7th - Day 2
Daily Tour Notice

October 8th - Day 3
Daily Tour Notice
DRINKING FOUNTAINS


Water Fountain nearby
Gran Caffe LaCaffettiera Restaurant , Rome


Fountain Close-up
Gran Caffe LaCaffettiera Restaurant , Rome

You can see in the close-up that there is a small hole on the top of the pipe. If you hold your hand over the spout (where the water normally flows) water will shoot up through the hole making it easy to get a drink (instead of cupping your hands like the lady in the first picture). Be careful though...it can shoot a long way if you completely cover the spout. You can even soak your wife if she happens to be standing in the right location...oops!

The other thing we learned is that it's safe to drink from the fountains you find ALL OVER Rome and a great place to fill your water bottle.
 
    Drinking Fountains
•  Internet on our
jet to Europe
•  Motor Cycles
    Roman Forum
•  Rome Subways
•  Taxis
•  Train, Tram and
Bus ticket
validation

    Basilica Santa
Maria
    Capitoline Museum
    Italy Segway Tours
    Jewish Ghetto
    Kitty City
•  Ostia Antica
    Palazzo Farnese
    Pantheon
    Piazza Trilussa
    Spanish Steps
    Terrazza Delle
Quadrighe (Chariot
Terrace)
    Trevi Fountain

    BA`Ghetto
Restaurant
    Cafe Friends
    Cesar Ristorante
Pizzeria
    Gran Caffe La
Caffettiera
    Hostoria del Moro
    McDonald
    Mercato Hostaria
    Punta Gelato
    Ristorante der
Pallaro
    Ristorante Strega

    Casa San Giuseppe
    Hotel Sonya

Capitoline Museum Admission Ticket (front/back)
(Click to Enlarge)
INTERNET ON OUR JET TO EUROPE


Crossing the North Atlantic
 



​Yup...it`s a picture of the display screen on our flight over. What makes it special is that it is also the picture I sent to our son to try out the Internet on our flight. The connection costs $13.85/hour (€10.95). Is it worth the money? Well that depends. If you're really desperate to send a short email or text to someone, then I guess it is. But if you think you're going to do a bunch of surfacing, etc. Not so much. The connection was easy to set up and charge on my credit card (the charge shows up as T-MOBILE HOTSPOT) but it`s VERY slow. Fun to play but not really practical.
MOTOR CYCLES

Motor Cycles are everywhere. With gas running more that $8.60/gallon it's no wonder. This parking area is just one of the many we saw all over Rome. There are a couple of important issues concerning motor cycles.
  • They don't always stop for traffic lights. We saw a group of them approach a traffic light, quickly check the intersection for traffic and then off they went right through the red light.
  • If you're walking across an intersection (even in the cross walk) DO NOT RUN if there is traffic approaching.  This advice is from our tour guide.  Drivers in Rome (in particular) have their timing down pat.  If you run you can throw off their timing and end up getting hit. Just put your hand out toward the traffic (like a cop telling them to stop) and keep moving at your normal pace.

Cycles in Rome...everywhere
Motor Cycles
ROMAN FORUM

Example of the fence around the Forum
Roman Forum, Rome

Linda, Jack and Jan overlooking the Forum
Roman Forum, Rome

Overlooking the Forum
Roman Forum, Rome

Panorama Trajan`s Markets
Roman Forum, Rome
What we learned about the Forum was interesting. When we visited the Forum eight years ago, you didn't have to pay to get in. Not true any longer. The entire area is fenced off (turns out it was eight years ago...although we basically didn't notice) and you have to buy a ticket (which includes the Colosseum). We didn't make the visit since we'd already been through the area.
Roman Forum
Via della Salaria Vecchia, 5/6
00186 Roma, Italy
Tel: +39 06 0608
ROME SUBWAYS

Subway Ticket (front/back)

Rome's subways are safe and very easy to use. For those of you that have used subways in other large European cities you'll find that they operate the same. If you haven't used a subway, the process is simply.

First buy you ticket at one of the vending machines in the lobby of the subway station. You don't have to worry about where you're going yet, since the tickets for a single trip are all the same price.

Next find a map of the subway lines (or print this Subway Map), again somewhere in the lobby. Locate the subway stop nearest your destination and remember which line it's on. If your destination is on the same line as the subway stop you're currently at, just follow the signs for the correct direction. How do you figure out the direction? On the map locate where you are and your destination. Now follow that line all the way to the end. The name of the last stop is used to identify direction...the one used on all the signs leading to the subway platforms.

As you head to the platform you'll encounter some turnstiles. This is where you use your ticket. Look for a turnstile showing a green arrow, insert your ticket in the slot on the front of the machine, take it back out when it appears out the top and enter through the opening.

If, however, the stop is on another line, it's no big deal. On the map, follow the line you're currently on until it crosses the line that contains your destination. You'll do a transfer where the two lines cross. What does a transfer entail? Simple enough...you leave the subway you're on and follow the signs at that stop to the other line (A or B) that contains your destination. The will be on a different level in the same subway station (otherwise the subways would run into each other). Again locate the proper direction using the name at the end of the line in the direction you wish to go and off you go. Easy peasy.

BTW, your ticket is good as long as you don't leave the area inside the turnstiles for up to 90 minutes. You could just ride around from end to end if you'd like. Why? Beats me!

Enjoy.
Rome Subways
TAXIS

Taxis in Rome appear to operate differently then other European cities (London, Paris, Berlin...). We tried a couple of times to catch a taxi out on one of the streets. Every taxi we spotted was occupied. We finally asked where we could get a taxi and we were directed to the closest taxi stand. This happened twice in the same day. It was clear that the available taxis are only at the taxi stands
 
TRAIN, TRAM AND BUS TICKET VALIDATION


Validated Train Ticket (both sides...from Ostia)
Ostia Antica, Rome


Tram Ticket Validation Machine

Tickets (like the one above) must be validated once you enter a bus, tram or train. The validation machine looks something like the second picture above. It's a simple matter of feeding the ticket into the machine (which will print the validation info) and the machine returns the ticket to you. Why bother? The simple answer is that it's required and that you can receive a significant fine if you're caught riding without a validated ticket. It's sort of an honor system
BASILICA SANTA MARIA
 

Looking toward the alter
Basilica Santa Maria
Capitoline Hill, Rome

 

Pulpit highlighted by the Sun
Basilica Santa Maria
Capitoline Hill, Rome

 

Steps to Basilica Santa Marie in Aracoeli
Capitoline Hill, Rome

 
Basilica Santa Maria
Scala dell`Arce Capitolina 12
00186 Rome, Italy
   
CAPITOLINE MUSEUM


Fragments of a colossal statue of Constantin (300-400BC)
Capitolini Museum
Piazza dei Campidoglio, Rome

 


She wolf suckles Romulus and Remus
Capitolini Museum
Piazza dei Campidoglio, Rome

 

Bronze Statue of Marcus Aurelius on horseback
Capitolini Museum
Piazza dei Campidoglio, Rome

 

Mosaic Orestes Iphigenia
Capitolini Museum
Piazza dei Campidoglio, Rome

 

Mosaic Orestes Iphigenia - Close up
Capitolini Museum
Piazza dei Campidoglio, Rome

 

Status of the Satyr Marsyas
Capitolini Museum
Piazza dei Campidoglio, Rome

 

Actual Foundation dei Tempio di Giove
Capitolini Museum
Piazza dei Campidoglio, Rome

 

Honorary Monument to Marcus Aurelius - Triumph
Capitolini Museum
Piazza dei Campidoglio, Rome

 

The Capitolini Museum is one of the two museum highlights of the trip (Archeological Museum in Naples is the other). It's the oldest museum in Rome. Starting with the giant statue parts (found at Kitty City) and finishing with the bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius the museum is full of wonderful exhibits. Be sure to click the Website button below to visit the museums website (one of the best I've seen) to see all they offer and the innovative technology they incorporate. An absolute must visit while you're in Rome.
 
Capitoline Museum
Piazza del Campidoglio 1
00186 Roma, Italy
Tel: 39 06 0608
      
ITALY SEGWAY TOURS


Outside the Colosseum
Segway Tour of Rome, Rome


Piazza dei Campidoglio, Capitoline Hill
Segway Tour of Rome, Rome


The Mouth of Truth (La Bocca della Verità)
Segway Tour of Rome, Rome


On our Segways (Trajan`s Market in the background)
Segway Tour of Rome, Rome


What a crew (Ron, Linda, Jan and Jack)
Segway Tour of Rome, Rome

We started our tour at the Segway office (it's marked on the map above). We left the office heading to the northwest end of the Piazza Foro Traiano for our orientation and training. I'll cover the training below. When our training was complete we headed toward the Colosseum on Via dei Fori Imperiali. We stopped across from Mercati di Traiano (Trajan's Market) for the first of many pictures.  Continuing down Via dei Fori Imperiali we stopped next at the Roman Colosseum and the east end of the Forum.

We now headed to the southwest side of the Circo Massimo (Circus Maximus) where we stopped for a little rest, a drink from one of the many Roman fountains and yup more pictures across from the Tempio di Apollo Patltino (Temple of Appollo on Palatine Hill).

Back on the Segways and off to the Cavalieri di Malta Keyhole. The keyhole is on the gate to the headquarters of the Knights of Malta on Rome's Aventine Hill. Peek through this keyhole onto a piazza designed by Pircanesi in 1765, and you will see a garden path that ends with bushes perfectly framing the dome of St. Peter's in the distance. The height of tourism.

Down the street and around the corner we stopped next at the Giardino degli Arance (Orange Garden). The garden has a great view of Rome looking toward St Peter's on the left and Capitoline Hill on the right.

Our tour wasn't over yet. We remounted the Segways and headed back toward Capitoline Hill stopping to see the Bocca della Verita (The Mouth of Truth) in the portico of the Church of Santa Maria along the way. This is the stone that appeared in the movie Roman Holiday with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. Very touristie.

Almost at the end of the tour. Our final two stops were the overlook at the northwest end of the Roman Forum and the Piazza dei Campidoglio on Capitoline Hill. A couple more pictures and back to the Segway office.

So back to the training we received. It took about 20-30 minutes to train all six of us. We started by simply standing on our Segways. That's the 'hardest part'. Once you stood on the Segway (without any major jerks) you basically had it beat. When you pushed the handles forward you went forward. To stop you shift your weight to you heals (by sticking out your butt). A few minutes of stop-and-go and left-and-right turns (pushing the handle left and right) and the next person in line began their training. Unbelievably easy.
 
Italy Segway Tours
Via di Santa Eufemia 15
00187 Rome, Italy
      
JEWISH GHETTO
 


Resturant and appartments
Jewish Ghetto, Rome


Ruins incorporated into a building wall
Jewish Ghetto, Rome


Casin dei Vallati Portico d`Ottavia
Jewish Ghetto, Rome


Theatre of Marcello (note the apartments above)
Jewish Ghetto, Rome

Jews have occupied this part of Rome for more than 2,200 years. I'm not going to go into the history (Rick gives a good explanation here). Our guide, Francesca, did a great job of describing the ruins we were looking at and how the people who occupied the neighborhood for more than 2000 years.

During the rise of Mussolini the Jews were not treated differently from other Italian citizens. However, when Germany took control of Italy this all changed. Imagine if you can what it was like when the Nazis showed up to force people from their homes.
 
Jewish Ghetto
   
KITTY CITY


Kitty City...Larga di Torre Argentina

The area of Larga di Torre Argentina was going to be reconstructed in the early 20th century. During the demolition, it was discovered that the area held great historic significants. The colossal body parts pictured at the Capitolini Museum were discovered here. Also Julius Ceasar was killed in the Curia of the Theatre of Pompey. You can read all about the site at the website link below.

But what about the Kitty City title. For the past several decades not much work has been taking place on the site. During that time a clowder of cats has taken up residents. To take care of the cats the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary was established and the area has been declared as a no-kill shelter. It's now a city for the kitties.
 
Kitty City...Larga di Torre Argentina
Ancient Campus Martius
Rome, Italy
   
OSTIA ANTICA


Map of the portion uncovered (about 35%)
Ostia Antica, Rome


Our tour guide Rebecca explaining grain milling stones
Ostia Antica, Rome


Floor mosaic indicating what this shop sold
Ostia Antica, Rome


Good example of a neighborhood street
Ostia Antica, Rome


An apartment building
Ostia Antica, Rome


Grounds map showing the current location (VERY IMPORTANT)
Ostia Antica, Rome

From Wikipedia: Ostia Antica is a large archeological site, close to the modern suburb of Ostia, that was the location of the harbour city of ancient Rome, which is approximately 30 kilometres (19 miles) to the northeast. "Ostia" (plur. of "ostium") is a derivation of "os", the Latin word for "mouth". At the mouth of the River Tiber, Ostia was Rome's seaport, but due to silting the site now lies 3 kilometres (2 miles) from the sea.[1] The site is noted for the excellent preservation of its ancient buildings, magnificent frescoes and impressive mosaics. You can read the rest of the Wiki article here. The Ostia Antica website is available by clicking the Website below.

We spent about four hours at the site. It is clear (as you can see from the pictures) that the ruins are very well preserved. Since our visit to Ostia Antica happened after our visit to Pompeii, we were able to do a pretty good comparison. Ostia Antica is a much better representation of Roman life. The buildings were generally in much better shape (many had second stories, etc). Pompeii simply receives a lot more attention due to the way it was destroyed and later discovered (that information is covered later under Sorrento). The bottom line? If you wish to see a better example of Roman life at the time of Christ, Ostia should be your choice. However, if you want to impress friends back home with what you've seen go to Pompeii...not many will have heard of Ostia Antica.

One final point. Notice the last picture above. It's a map of the grounds with an indicator showing where you're currently located. Pay attention. We spent more than ten minutes after our tour ended trying to figure our way out of the ruins (it's just like a maze). 
This map shows the distance between Rome and Ostia Antica. When the city was occupied this distance would have been a one day journey (by horseback) or several days on foot. Today it's a 20 minute ride (13 miles) on the train.




 
Ostia Antica
      
PALAZZO FARNESE
 


A full shot
Palazzo Farnese, Rome


Donato`s Intro to Rome
Palazzo Farnese, Rome

From Wikipedia: Palazzo Farnese is one of the most important High Renaissance palaces in Rome. Owned by the Republic of Italy, it was given to the French Government in 1936 for a period of 99 years, and currently serves as the French embassy in Italy.

First designed in 1517 for the Farnese family, the building expanded in size and conception when Alessandro Farnese became Pope Paul III in 1534, to designs by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger. Its building history involved some of the most prominent Italian architects of the 16th century, including Michelangelo, Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola and Giacomo della Porta.

At the end of the 16th century, the important fresco cycle of The Loves of the Gods in the Farnese Gallery was carried out by the Bolognese painter Annibale Carracci, marking the beginning of two divergent trends in painting during the 17th century, the Roman High Baroque and Classicism. The famous Farnese sculpture collection, now in the National Archeological Museum of Naples, as well as other Farnese collections, now mostly in Capodimonte Museum in Naples, were accommodated in the palace.

 
Palazzo Farnese
Piazza Farnese, 67
00100 Roma, Italy
Tel: +39 06 0606 0884
   
PANTHEON

Front Facade
Pantheon, Rome

Interior
Pantheon, Rome

Keep in mind as you visit the Pantheon...it`s an active church so you'll repeatedly hear someone asking the crowd to be quiet out of respect.

From the Wikipedia site: The Pantheon is a building in Rome, Italy, commissioned by Marcus Agrippa during the reign of Augustus (27 BC - 14 AD) and rebuilt by the emperor Hadrian about 126 AD.

The building is circular with a portico of large granite Corinthian columns (eight in the first rank and two groups of four behind) under a pediment. A rectangular vestibule links the porch to the rotunda, which is under a coffered concrete dome, with a central opening (oculus) to the sky. Almost two thousand years after it was built, the Pantheon's dome is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome.[3] The height to the oculus and the diameter of the interior circle are the same, 43.3 metres (142 ft).
Pantheon
Piazza della Rotonda
Rome, Italy
      
PIAZZA TRILUSSA


Statue & monument to Carlo Alberto Salustri, Piazza Trilussa
The plaza is located one half block from our hotel.

From SpottedByLocals.comNamed after a famous Roman poet, Carlo Alberto Salustri (pseudonym Trilussa), the piazza has come to be a meeting spot and a nightly hangout for all Romans. During the day you will mostly see people relaxing on the steps, eating their lunches, or enjoying a gelato. By night, the piazza transforms into a huge sea of people: all with cocktails in hand, brought over from the nearby bars.
Piazza Trilussa
   
SPANISH STEPS
 


Looking up to the Trivita dei Monti Church
Spanish Steps, Rome


Looking down to the Piazza Spagna
Spanish Steps, Rome


Linda and Jan near the top
Spanish Steps, Rome


Spanish Embassy
Spanish Steps, Rome


Potential guides (not!)
Spanish Steps, Rome

 
The Spanish steps were not designed or built by the Spanish. Their origin is French.

They lead from the Piazza di Spagna (which houses the Spanish Embassy) to the Trivita dei Monti Church.

The Piazza di Spagna houses some of the most exclusive shops of Rome...the Rodeo drive of Italy.
Spanish Steps
Piazza di Spagna
001877, Rome, Italy
      
TERRAZZA DELLE QUADRIGHE (CHARIOT TERRACE)
 


Looking north at the Piazza Venezia
Roma dal Cielo Terrazza delle Quadrighe
Capitoline Hill, Rome


Looking south to the Roman Colosseum
Roma dal Cielo Terrazza delle Quadrighe
Capitoline Hill, Rome


Looking northwest to the Vatican, a closer view
Roma dal Cielo Terrazza delle Quadrighe
Capitoline Hill, Rome


Statue Goddess Victoria on a Quadrigas
Roma dal Cielo Terrazza delle Quadrighe
Capitoline Hill, Rome
 
It is sold as a 360º view of Rome.  While not really (more like 280-300º) it is a great place to take pictures of Rome from above the city.  The view is only limited by the two statue of the Goddess Victoria on a Quadrugas on the parapets at each end of the Monument to Vittorio Emannele II upon which the terrace is located. The view to the north includes the Vatican, the Pantheon and  the Piazza Venezia.  The view to the south includes the Roman Forum, the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill.  If it's a sunny day, don't miss the view.

You take an elevator from the Piazza Ara Coeli (west side of Vittoriano). Ticket prices are €7 for regular admission and €3,50 for seniors.
Piazza Venezia
00184 Rome, Italy
TREVI FOUNTAIN
 


Construction walk away
Trevi Fountain, Rome


Substitute `Coin Toss` (Talk about silly)
Trevi Fountain, Rome

We were lucky that we saw the Trevi Fountain when we were in Rome eight years ago. It was under maintenance this time around. Luckily, they did take the time to set up a substitute coin toss...Ha! Ha!
Trevi Fountain
Piazza di Trevi
00187 Roma
   
BA`GHETTO RESTAURANT

We actually wanted to eat at a restaurant across the street from this place. They didn't start dinner until after 8:00 pm. We switched and didn't regret our decision. Good food, nice setting, recommended.
 


 

Jewish Matchmaker Business Card
Jewish Ghetto, Rome
  Then there was the Jewish Match Maker that sat behind us. She introduced herself and told us all about the how she's third generation and planning to be in New York in the next couple of weeks. Very interesting.
 
BA`Ghetto Restaurant
Via Portico D`Ottavia 57
00186 Rome, Italy
Tel: 39 06.68.89.28.68
      
CAFE FRIENDS


Linda, Jack and Jan planning our first day

When we first arrived we got together with Jan and Jack to rest up from the trip across the pond and to catch up with all the things we've done since we were last together. We didn't actually have anything to eat, just some drinks, but wouldn't recommend it due to overhead BIRD issues.
Cafe Friends
Plaza Trilussa, 34
Rome, Italy
CESAR RISTORANTE PIZZERIA
 
It's almost not fair to review this restaurant. We stopped in to get a quick meal before we went on our Segway tour. With so little time we barely received our food before we had to leave. I only got a couple of bites but it was good. I think I'd recommend it because of it's close proximity to the Roman Forum, etc.
 
Cesar Ristorante Pizzeria
Via 4 Novembre 137/140
00187 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 89531732
GRAN CAFFE LA CAFFETTIERA
 


Lunch on our first full day
Gran Caffe LaCaffettiera Restaurant , Rome


Front Entrance
Gran Caffe LaCaffettiera Restaurant , Rome

This was a great place to stop for lunch. Ordered way too much food...but managed to get through it. It is recommended.
Gran Caffe La Caffettiera
Piazza di Pietra, 65
00186 Rome, Italy
Tel: +39 06 679 8147
   
HOSTORIA DEL MORO

From down the street
Hostoria del Moro da Tony, Rome
The location of the restaurant was great for our hotel.  The food was good but not really special.  Recommended?  Sure but there are other places that were closer to the hotel than this place.

But wait I forgot one important point...you get FREE Tiramisu at the end of your meal!





 
Hostoria del Moro
Vicolo del Cinque, 35-36-37
00158 Roma
Tel: 06-5809165
FAX: 06-586077
      
MCDONALD

Some things don`t require translation
McDonald's Restaurant, Rome

Yeah I know...McDonald's? This was the last full day in Rome (at the end of our tour) and honestly I was pizza'd out (although Linda tried to get some mini pizzas and had to settle for a chicken sandwich and part of a burger (thanks to the clerk whop felt sorry for us waiting so long). Anyway, it was a great refreshment.
 
McDonald`s
Via Marsala, 25
Termini Gallery
Rome, Italy
Tel: 06-4828985
   
MERCATO HOSTARIA
 


Outdoor seating
Mercato Hostaria, Rome


Outdoor seating
Mercato Hostaria, Rome

The food was very good. The location and setting were great. We'd give it a good recommendation
 
Mercato Hostaria
Piazza Campo de
00186 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06.88972697
   
PUNTA GELATO


Punto Gelato

According to Linda and Jan, this is the best gelato, not only in Rome, but over all the locations we visited in Italy.

Jack and I agree it was good but...

 
Punta Gelato
Via dei Pettinari, 43
00186 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 68398030
      
RISTORANTE DER PALLARO
 


First dinner together
Ristorante der Pallaro, Rome


First dinner together
Ristorante der Pallaro, Rome

Our first day and first dinner together. A lot of discussing where we're from, what trips we've taken and why we decided to come to Italy. The meal was traditional Italian with many courses...all very good. We didn't pick the dinner Mama did (she owns the restaurant). We'd both recommend it.
 
Ristorante der Pallaro
Largo del Pallaro, 15
00186 S. Andrea della Valle, Rome
Tel: 06.68801488
      
RISTORANTE STREGA


Our final dinner in Europe
Ristorante Strega, Rome

The service and location (2 blocks from the Sonya Hotel) were good. But Linda and I ordered carbonara which was just okay. Other meals were good. We'd give it a partial recommendation.
 
Ristorante Strega
Piazza del Viminale, 27/31
00184 Rome, Italy
Tel: +39 06 485670
      
CASA SAN GIUSEPPE


Hotel Casa San Giuseppe, Rome


Main Entrance
Hotel Casa San Giuseppe, Rome


Our Room
Hotel Casa San Giuseppe, Rome
Casa San Giuseppe
Vicolo Moroni 22
Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 58 333 490
FAX: 06 58 335 754
            
HOTEL SONYA


As we approach (Note the HOTEL sign)
Hotel Sonya, Rome


Opera House (across the street)
Hotel Sonya, Rome

This is a great hotel. Both our room and Jan and Jack's was very recently remodeled. It's is located very close to the Termini station yet is far enough away to not have issues. The breakfast we had is one of the best on the trip. Note: the direction given by the hotel are confusing. If you follow their direction, be sure to turn at the first street to the right after you start down Cavous. A much easier way is to go straight out of Termini Station, past the bus parking until you reach Viminale (the hotel`s street). Turn left and head straight to the hotel. It`s simple to find...right across from Opera House (see the picture above).

 
Hotel Sonya
Via del Viminal, 58
00184 Rome, Italy
Tel: 06 481991
FAX: 06-4885678