We said Auf Wiedersehen to Kurt and Fatima, boarded our bus, and began our journey down the Rhine to Rothenburg (pronounced wrot-in-burg). Along the way we saw numerous grape vines growing on hills so steep it was hard to imagine how they could be harvested. Every valley seemed to have a small village of its own. As the altitude increased and the vegetation changed to pine forests the slopes filled with immaculate farms.
But before we we cover our next stop, let's cover traveling on the bus. What exactly was it like? In fact, it was great. Since we were traveling about every other day, it gave us time to recharge for our next stop. Recharging included both resting our feet and taking the time to go over our notes and get them written down. Our driver Matt did an outstanding job of getting us to each of our locations and even acted as our savior in Venice! And the music, ah...the music. Since we each had our own double seat we were able to spread out in comfort. Early on Lisa told us to move around the bus so we weren't sitting in the same seats. But since no one seemed concerned about that, we pretty much stayed in the same location with the same outstanding folks. It was spacious, clean, comfortable and frankly the best way we could have traveled around Europe!
On to Rothenburg. It was an outstanding example of a Medieval town. We learned about its history from Lisa's introduction and from our time spent with the Night Watchman. Our hotel was conveniently located just inside the town's preserved wall...in its neck.
After getting settled we took a quick trip around the town. Then the whole gang met for a pre-Oktoberfest meal at the Unter den Linden Beer Garden.
Night Watchman In the flesh
Later that evening we took a guided tour of Rothenburg with the Night Watchman. This is a must if you are in Rothenburg in the evening!
The breakfast in our hotel (on the day we left) was the most beautiful presentation of the tour. Read more under Where We Ate.
What We Learned
A Synopsis of Rothenburg's Past
Sept. 20, 2006
The main drag
Small sgtreets mean SMALL vehicales
St Jacob`s
Notice the beam at the peak...for hoisting goods
In 1274 Rothenburg was given the status of a Free Imperial City. With 5,500 inhabitants and 14,000 more in the surrounding villages, Rothenburg was a major stop along the trading route from Würzburg to Augsburg. The Church of St. Jacob, the ornate city hall and the large patrician houses, in the center of town, show the wealth of the past.
The characteristic beam reaching from the front side of many houses, was used to bring food to the highest point in the house where it was most likely to stay dry. Citizens of Rothenburg were required to store a years worth of grain to sustain the town through a siege by a hostile force. Meat was not stored because it would have to be preserved using salt. Salt at that time was so valuable it was used as a second currency.
The "good old days" of Rothenburg were simply not. The practice of dumping chamber pots into the streets to mix with the dropping of animals created an environment ripe for the development of the Black Plague which killed a third of Europe's population. The situation was so bad in the summer, it drove the wealthy to their country homes as an escape (poor dears).
Rothenburg exists today because of a foolish mistake by the caretakers of the main storehouse of gunpowder in 1631 (middle of the 30 years war). The gunpowder was accidentally ignited, destroying the town's ability to defend itself and leaving a gaping hole in the city's wall. This allowed the forces of General Tilly (of the Imperial Catholic Army) to capture and sack the town. The Black Plague followed in 1634 and, along with repeated ransacking of the town, the city was left as a shell and the citizens exhausted. The trade route changed leaving Rothenburg without a future and source of income. So the town "fell asleep" for the next 250 years and since it could not afford to modernize, it remained much as it was in the 17th century.
Eventually Rothenburg was rediscovered by German painters and their followers. Tourism quickly became a major factor is the life of the town. Laws were quickly passed prohibiting Rothenburg's citizens from making changes to their home and shops. It guaranteed that Rothenburg would remain the romantic and unique reminder of the past.
All was almost lost during World War II. In March of 1945 a German general and his troops occupied Rothenburg (running from Nuremberg) and vowed to defend it to the last man. This caused the allies to bomb the town causing significant damage, but not driving the German forces out. Shortly thereafter US Deputy Secretary of State General John McCloy (familiar with the town from a painting given him by his mother) sent word to the local commander to spare the town any further bombing if the town surrendered. This was agreed to by the citizens of Rothenburg while the German General was away, sparing it any further damage.
Donations from around the world helped restore Rothenburg to its pre-war splendor.
What We Saw
St. Jakobs Church
Sept. 20, 2006
Stone Tabernacle
Alter of the Crowning of the Virgin Mary
High Alter
The canopy above the Main Alter
Stained Glass Close-Up
Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (center)
Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (center)
Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (right)
Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (left)
Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (above)
St. Jakobs was a beautiful church started in 1311 and consecrated in 1485. The church had a series of altars, all of which are dazzling! The High Altar also called the Twelve Apostles Altar was built in 1446. The carvings were the work of Swabian master carvers.
The Altar of the Holy Blood held a crystal capsule that contained a piece of altar cloth in which wine was spilled forming the figure of a cross. The carving was the work of the famous sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider and the work was executed between 1499 and 1505. The scene beneath the crystal was the Last Supper. Notice the workmanship! What's truly amazing to me? This altar was not the main one...it was on the second floor back behind the new organ. Go figure!
St Jacob`s
St. Jakobs Church Klostergasse 15 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany Tel: +49 9861 40492
What We Saw
Kriminalmuseum (Crime Museum)
Sept. 20, 2006
Brochure
The Medieval Crime Museum features an outstanding collection of antique objects and documents covering crime and punishment from the 12th to the nineteenth centuries. It had four floors and 20,000 square feet of medieval laws, verdicts, punishment and torture devices used to keep people in line.
The exhibits included instruments of torture, items used in the execution of sentences, graphic arts, documents of emperors, princes, the nobility and towns. The museum was loaded with goodies that you were not likely to see anywhere else. By the way, all of the displays were explained in English.
The Night Watchman was a unique, informative and very entertaining introduction to Rothenburg. Each evening at 8:00pm Hans Georg Baumgartner (the Night Watchman) appeared in the town square of Rothenburg and beckoned everyone present to follow him on a tour of the city. He explained that the night watchmen were charged with the safety of the city after dark and were active until the 1920's. He also showed that tours can be as entertaining as they are educational. That's why Hans was know as the Jerry Seinfield of Rothenburg.
Our crowd numbered several hundred and imagine this was NOT the height of the tourist season. We spent an hour or more learning about the history of Rothenburg. Why the town was a wonderful example of a medieval town. What life was like when the town was in its heyday (so smelly it drove the wealthy out to their country homes in the summer). Why the citizens were required to store a years worth of grain in their attic. How the town was almost destroyed during World War II but then saved by an American who's mother visited the town when she was younger.
At the end of the tour we were asked to make a modest donation. While it was voluntary, very few people walked away without paying (yes...some did). I'm not sure if Hans was commissioned by the city to run this tour or if he did it on his own. It didn't really matter. It was a GREAT way to learn about the city and appreciate what life was like hundreds of years ago. A must see!
Where We Ate
Altstadt-Cafe Alter Keller
Sept. 20, 2006
Outside Terrace
A delightful little outdoor cafe with good German food. Note that Dick, Rose, Rose and Marge (behind the bush on the left) were having lunch there when we walked up. They enjoyed their meals as well.
Altstadt-Cafe Alter Keller
Altstadt-Cafe Alter Keller Alter Keller 8 Rothenburh, Germany Tel: 09861/2268
Where We Ate
Unter den Linden Beer Garden
Sept. 20, 2006
Our group at dinner
Our group at dinner
Our group at dinner
Our group at dinner
This meal was together to "practice" for Oktoberfest (which we went to the next day). Since the weather continued to be good (I can't tell you the number of times we thanked the weather gods), we ate outside. The food was typical of that served at Oktoberfest as was the beer! Great food and a great group of fellow travelers. We all had..that's right a GREAT time.
Unter den Linden Beer Garden
Unter den Linden Beer Garden Kurze Steige 7 b 91541 Rothenburg Tel: 09861/5909
Where We Ate
Hotel Gerberhaus
Sept. 21, 2006
The breakfast in our hotel (on the day we left) was the most beautiful presentation of the tour. The setting was a romantic, cozy dinning room with a beautiful candle lit table filled with such food as assorted breads, homemade jams, berries of all kinds, fresh fruit, cheeses, meats, and chocolates.
/2405251729IMG_0925.JPG)
/IMG_0876f.JPG "On the bus")
/IMG_1057f.JPG "On to Rothenburg")
/IMG_1069f.JPG "Heading down the main street")
/IMG_1133f.JPG "Our group at dinner")
/IMG_1144f.JPG "Night Watchman In the flesh")
/IMG_1076f.JPG "The main drag")
/IMG_1067f.JPG "Small sgtreets mean SMALL vehicales")
/IMG_1080f.JPG "St Jacob`s")
/IMG_1117f.JPG "Notice the beam at the peak...for hoisting goods")
/IMG_1089f.JPG "Stone Tabernacle")
/IMG_1087f.JPG "Alter of the Crowning of the Virgin Mary")
/IMG_1094f.JPG "High Alter")
/IMG_1091f.JPG "The canopy above the Main Alter")
/IMG_1095f.JPG "Stained Glass Close-Up")
/IMG_1097f.JPG "Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (center)")
/IMG_1102f.JPG "Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (center)")
/IMG_1103f.JPG "Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (right)")
/IMG_1104f.JPG "Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (left)")
/IMG_1106f.JPG "Close-Up Alter of the Holy Blood (above)")
/CrimeMuseumf.jpg "Brochure")
/Crime Museum Insigniaf.jpg "Crime Museum Emblem, Rothenburg")
/2404212203IMG_1146f.JPG)
/Watchman2Vf.jpg "The Watchman`s handout.")
/IMG_1145f.JPG "The local buildings at night")
/IMG_1147f.JPG "Another night shot")
/IMG_1111f.JPG "Outside Terrace")
/Rothenburg Restf.jpg "Altstadt-Cafe Alter Keller<br>Around Rothenburg, Rothenburg")
/IMG_1132f.JPG "Our group at dinner")
/IMG_1134f.JPG "Our group at dinner")
/IMG_1135f.JPG "Our group at dinner")
/Rothenburg Rest 2f.jpg "Unter den Linden Beer Garden, Rothenburg")
/Breakfastf.jpg "Hotel Gerberhaus, Rothenburg")
/IMG_1060f.JPG "The view from our room")
/HPIM0095f.JPG "The room")
/HPIM0096f.JPG "The room")
/IMG_1065f.JPG "The rest of the room")
/IMG_1064f.JPG "More of the room")
/IMG_1066f.JPG "Lobby")
/HPIM0098f.JPG "A shot of the city wall out a hallway winodw")
/Gerberhausf.gif "Rothenburg")