After many months of planning and anticipation our trip finally started in Edinburgh. We arrived a few days early to rid ourselves of the jet lag. Our first two nights were spent at the Dunedin Guest House (bed & breakfast). The price was significantly lower than the hotels, good location, "homey", and a wonderful welcome to Scottish culture. Also, the couple who owned the B&B were very friendly and helpful. Their assistance was first-rate and the breakfast they served magnificent. We traveled from the airport on a shuttle bus to the center of Edinburgh and then we took a taxi to the B&B. The shuttle bus cost ₤6 (₤3 per person) and the taxi was another ₤4.50.
Floral Clock
Downtown Edinburgh iss not that large. The bus system was easy to understand, efficient, and responsibly priced ( ₤1 per trip in one direction, including transfers). After breakfast we took the bus to the center of Edinburgh where we explored Princes Street and The Royal Mile (mostly High Street).
Mary King`s Close
Make sure you visit the 'closes'. They are the side streets or "alleys" from the Royal Mile to Princes Garden. These side streets are not very wide so you'll think of them as passage ways! to check out the info (below) from our visit to Mary King's close. The picture on the right is that of the Anchor Close.
The second day Jack and Jan, we met them on a previous Rick Steves tour, joined us. We returned to the Royal Mile for a visit to St. Giles Cathedral and the Museum of Scotland . After lunch at the Deacon Brody , we walked to Edinburgh castle. Wrong time of the year to see the Tatto Festival, however, we were lucky to be there for the installation of the new Governor of Edinburgh Castle .
How did we find out about it? Well, we met another traveler (not on our tour) who was reviewing Edinburgh in Rick`s Great Britain tour book. Having Rick in common, we struck up a conversation. Turned out that her tour guide had told her about the installation of the Governor that evening. What a break!
Novotel Hotel
On day three of the tour, us took a taxi to the Novotel Hotel, the first hotel on the tour. Nice place, although it lacked the atmosphere of the Guest House, (details below) with a great location. While the weather wasn't very nice, we were close to the castle, the Museum of Scotland and the Royal Mile. After we dropped our bags Linda and I went back to the Museum of Scotland for a closer look at the displays and to visit the terrace on the top floor. Both were definitely worth it.
First Tour Group Meeting
First Tour Group Meeting
At 5:00 pm we met up with our tour group in the lobby of the hotel. It was obvious that we lucked out a second time with a great group of experienced Rick Steves' fellow travelers. Everyone was excited to have the tour start (although some were still jet lagged) and find out about everyone else. Our tour guide, Gillian Chadwick, joined us and we were off to our first dinner (see Hardies below). After ordering dinner we each gave an introduction about ourselves and shared our travel experiences with the others at our table.
Our Tour Guide Devina
Walking Tour
Walking Tour
Our final day in Edinburgh started with a walking tour of the town center lead by our Scottish tour guide for the day, Devina. She lead us from our hotel up to the castle. With a great deal of pride she told us about sites along the way as well as the accomplishments of a number of famous Scots. One of the most famous, of course, is Dolly the first cloned sheep. At this point we didn't appreciate the importance of this discovery. As we traveled through the country side during the next two weeks it became obvious that sheep are VERY important is Britain. We past by a number of important sites:
George Heriot's School
The location where Tony Blair was born (no longer there)
Greyfriar Bobby's Statue, grave and the grave of his owner
Museum of Scotland
Elephant House Cafe (where Harry Potter was written) (link above)
St. Giles` Cathedral
Some closes off of High Street (small aisle ways that ran between buildings)
Deacon Brodie's Tavern and the story of Jekyll and Hyde
Memorial to the woman who were accused of witchcraft and burned there
The Castle Esplanade and finally the Edinburgh Castle
Where We Ate
The Filling Station
June 21, 2007
Their picture interior
American-style bar and restaurant on the High Street, very popular with tourists. The main bar is on a raised platform to the front of the room overlooking High Street. To the rear is the restaurant which is decked out in typical American license plates and other related memorabilia. The menu is mainly pizzas, burgers etc, with some local choices as well.
While we enjoyed the food and the price was not out of line with other places in Edinburgh, the restaurant is just a little too American, i.e., what we have at home not a place for Scottish fare. We'd recommend it, but only if you're looking for a touch of home.
The Filling Station
The Filling Station 235 High Street Edinburgh, EH1 1PE Tel: +44 0131-226 2488 FAX: +44 0131-226 3528
Where We Ate
Deacon Brody Restaurant
June 22, 2007
An interesting combination...
We ate upstairs and had a great meal. Jack actually had Haggis while the rest of us went a little more conservative. The food was good, service was great, the prices were reasonable (as they can be) and the atmosphere felt real Scottish.
There's one other interesting sign at the restaurant (right). Isn't it amazing how we say the same things differently?
Also check out Deacon Brodie under What We Learned.
Deacon Brody Restaurant 435 Lawnmarket The Royal Mile Edinburgh, EH1 2NT Tel: 0131 225 6531
Where We Ate
Howies Restaurant, Victoria Street
June 22, 2007
Dinner on the first day of our tour was our time for introductions. After filling our glasses with wine each of introduced ourselves and feverishly took notes about everyone else in the group.
Since we were in a group we had a choice of sea bass and two other choices that we can't remember. The food was great. The wine was great. The tour group was great (we didn't know that until we had a chance to get to know everyone else). Not sure on the pricing, but we'd recommend it on the basis of service and the sea bass.
From across the street
Howies Restaurant, Victoria Street 10-14 Victoria Street Edinburgh, EH1 Tel: 0131 225 1721
Where We Ate
Lucky Star Restaurant
June 22, 2007
A Chinese take-away? Ok...here's the story. We returned to our B&B at about 9:00PM and THEN decided to look for a place to eat. Here's a warning. There isn't any place open at that time of night near the B&Bs, except the Lucky Star. We tried a number of places and they were either closed or closing, i.e., the kitchen was shut down. But not the Lucky Star. While it's a take-away, they also offer some seating. Now it's not exactly Scottish fare, we enjoyed everything we ordered.
I wouldn't exactly recommend that you head there instead of one of the many places that are open until 9:00, but if you get yourself into a time crunch, it's a great alternative.
A good restaurant! We all had a great lunch in the atmosphere of a true Scottish pub. The food was reasonably priced and the young lady that waited on us was very friendly. Turned out that she was actually an American student from Kalamazoo who attended college in Chicago...go figure. Anyway you can see from the pictures (be sure to click below for more pictures) that the place is large, but very cozy, friendly and a lot of fun.
The Jolly Judge 7 James Court Lawnmarket Edinburgh, EH1 2PB Tel: 44 (0) 131 225 2669
What We Saw
Street Performer like NO other
June 24, 2007
Wonder where he plays today.
What We Learned
This & That about Scotland
June 22, 2007
There are a number of "things'' we learned about Edinburgh and Scotland:
The Scots do not like the English. On a one-to-one basis they get along fine. However, if the Scots had a choice, I'm pretty sure they would like to be their own country.
It rains A LOT in Scotland. Okay, you say we should already have known that. Nevertheless even when you are told that you will probably have rain you still hold out the hope that it will be sunny. DON`T.
The Scots are VERY friendly. Clearly David and Irene at the Dunedin House were friendly and very helpful. Also the average person on the street, on a bus and elsewhere were very warm and helpful.
It rains A LOT in Scotland.
There is an ATM/cash machine in front of the Princes Mall (on Princes Street) that didn't charge for a withdrawal.
Haggis is NOT only for the tourist (even though I'm sure they eat the majority of it). Just for teh record, Jack enjoyed his.
It rains A LOT in Scotland.
What does a TRUE Scot wear under his kilt? NOTHING! No...we didn't look.
A handmade kilt can cost $1,000.
What We Learned
Deacon Brodie
June 21, 2007
All about Deacon Brodie
The story of Deacon Brodie was the basis for Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde written by Robert Louis Stevenson. Deacon Brodie (1741-88) was a respected cabinet-maker and a member of the Town Council, and Deacon (head) of the Incorporation of Wrights and Masons. However, Brodie lived a double life, developing an expensive lifestyle including mistresses and gambling that he could only support through a secret life of crime.
From across the street
As a respected craftsman, part of Brodie's day job involved manufacturing and repairing locks. It became his practice to take copies of all these keys so that he could return later that night with accomplices.
Brodie's downfall followed an armed raid on His Majesty's Excise Office on Edinburgh's Cannongate. One of the gang was caught red handed and although Brodie escaped to the Netherlands he was arrested in Amsterdam and returned to Scotland for trial. Brodie was found guilty after a search of his home revealed his stock of duplicate keys and he was sentenced to hang at Edinburgh's Tollbooth on 1 October 1788. Brodie bribed the hangman to ignore a steel collar he was wearing, designed to keep him alive long enough to be revived after the hanging. It failed, however, and Brodie's double life was over.
We ran across a book in the store of the Museum of Scotland concerning Disney's movie about Greyfrairs Bobby. It said that the author had never been to Edinburgh and that most of what she wrote she simply made up. It's true that Bobby existed and his owner was a policeman. The rest...mostly fiction.
Bobby's marker located outside behind the tavern. It's hard to read. It says he died on Jaunary 14th 1872...Aged 16 years. At the bottom it says "May his loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all"
What We Saw
Sir Walter Scott Monument
June 21, 2007
Close-up view of the monument
The Scott Monument is 200 ft. 6ins. high and 55ft. square at the base; the highest gallery is reached by climbing a total of 287 steps. Statuettes, representing a character from the works of Sir Walter Scott, are in each the 64 niches along the outside of the monument.
Sir Walter Scott Monument Princes Street Edinburgh
What We Saw
The Real Mary King`s Close (a tour)
June 21, 2007
This is not a cheap attraction (₤22 or $28). The tour took about an hour and was everything we expected. You can clearly see and feel what life was like on the Close hundreds of years ago. It's an amazing twist of fate that the need for progress (in the form of a new Royal Exchange, now the City Chambers), froze the structures underneath in place and time. Take the time to go through the tour. It's worth the time and the price of admission. Visit their website (linked below) for details and to book a tour. BTW...Yes it is just a tiny bit "ghosty"...but just ignore that for the history.
The Real Mary King`s Close (a tour) 2 Warriston`s Close High Street Edinburgh, EH1 1PG Tel: 08702 430160
What We Saw
National Museum of Scotland
June 21, 2007
We visited the Museum of Scotland twice. There was so much to see that we simply ran out of time on our first visit. Our second visit was highlighted with a magnificent view from the roof top terrace that over looks Edinburgh.
Admission to the Museum is free. They have a very diverse collection of historic items from Scotland covering its extensive history. We did notice that the layout of the museum was a little confusing and that the hand held audio guide was limited. However, we both felt it was a remarkable place to visit and wished we would have had more time to do it justice.
National Museum of Scotland Chambers Street Edinburgh, EH1 1JF Tel: 0131 247 4422
What We Saw
St Gile's Cathedral
June 22, 2007
There is record of the establishment of a parish church in Edinburgh by the year 854, served by a vicar from a monastic house, probably in England. The parish church of Edinburgh was subsequently reconsecrated and named in honor of the patron saint of the town, St Giles, whose feast day is celebrated on 1st of September.
With roots in the Middle Ages, the Order of the Thistle is Scotland's great order of chivalry, and membership is considered to be one of the country's highest honors. The Order is traditionally given to Scots or people of Scottish ancestry, who have given distinguished service. Appointments are entirely the personal gift of the Sovereign.
The Thistle Chapel was finished in 1911. It contains stalls for the 16 knights, the Sovereigns stall, and two Royal stalls. Entrance is through a low-vaulted vestibule or ante-chapel at the east end of the Preston aisle. The chapel is a rectangle of three bays, with a polygonal eastern apse and a stone vault encrusted with a rich pattern of ribs and carved bosses.
Along the sides of the chapel are the knights stalls, which are capped by lavishly carved canopies with the helms and crests of the knights rising above. The richest effect of all, however, is reserved for the Sovereign's stall at the west end of the chapel.
St Gile's Cathedral Royal Mile (High Street) Edinburgh, EH1 1RE Tel: +44 (0)131 225 944 FAX: +44 (0)131 225 9576
WOW Moments
Installation of the Governor of Edinburgh Castle
June 22, 2007
Ceremony Program Cover
Ceremony Program Details
I'm not sure that everyone would consider this a Wow Moment but we did. We had the luck of being in Edinburgh on the single day in years that the new Governor of the Castle was installed. Flashy...no. Breath taking...no. Historic...You Bet, WOW!
What an opportunity! We weren't lucky enough to be in Edinburgh when the Tatto Festival occurs, but we were there for a ceremony that rarely happens. The Ceremony of the Installation of Her Majesty's Governor of Edinburgh Castle. It was fascinating to witness this very traditional ceremony.
Since Edinburgh Castle is a military installation, the Queen appointments the Commander of the Second Division (General Officer Commanding the Army in Scotland) as Governor of the Castle. This has occurred only 126 times over the last 830 years!
The installation was really interesting. It began with the arrival of the Band of the Royal Regiment of Scotland. They treated us with several pieces that included bagpipes. Next the F Company Scots Guards marched onto the parade ground and lined up for inspection.
Next to arrive were the State Trumpeters, Her Majesty's Officers of Arms and the Lord Lyon King of Arms. The video on the lower right shows the guards coming into the parade ground. They were followed by the Governor, Major General D McDowall MBE, with his piper, escorted by the representative of the Scottish Regiments and a pupil of Queen Victoria School, Dumblane.
Start of the Caramony
Edinburgh Castle
Installation of the Governor of Edinburgh Castle Castlehill Edinburgh EH1 2NG
What We Saw
Edinburgh Castle
June 22, 2007
St Margaret`s Chapel was interesting, but surprisingly small (holds about 20 people). Available for small intimate wedding ceremonies, this beautifully preserved 12th century chapel is the oldest building in the castle and indeed in Edinburgh. King David I built it as a private chapel for the royal family and dedicated it to his mother, Margaret, who died in the castle in 1093.
St. Margaret`s Chapel
Tour Intro from Devine
On into the Castle
Edinburgh Castle has much to explore and discover. You can visit St. Margaret`s Chapel, which is Edinburgh`s oldest building and dates back to the 1100s. Crown Square was the principal courtyard developed in the 15th century. Also see the Great Hall, built by James IV, and admire its impressive hammer beam roof, and the Scottish National War Memorial, added after World War I.
We started with an introduction by our tour guide before we entered the Castle. Devina did a great job of explaining why the Castle was needed, why it was built where it is and why it is still in use. For more information on the history of the castle
Trench Mortar
Trench Mortar
At the front gate (just across the `drawbridge'...a stone bridge today) we are met by Robert the Bruce (on the left) and William Wallace (on the right). Although Wallace (Brave Heart) was executed by the English, he is a hero to the Scots!
The Great Hall
The Great Hall
The Great Hall
The Great Hall
The Great Hall
The Great Hall
The Great Hall
Inside the gate you have the Crown Square and a number of building. Prominent is the residence of the Governor of the Castle. Nearby are St. Margaret`s Chapel and the Great Hall. In the Great Hall we were greeted by a Castle Guard who interpreted the story of life in the great hall. We learned that much of the time there were three levels which housed 500 hundred (guards and their families). Open fires, no refrigerator or bathrooms (in fact the urine was used to "clean" their shirts. The good old days were simply not that good. The interpreter (with his bear skin/fir hat) did an outstanding job!
Edinburgh from the court yard
Edinburgh from the court yard
In the court yard you have a terrific view of Edinburgh. While it was raining when we were there, you could still appreciate the strategic significance of the castle being on the top of the old volcano. Not to mention the fact that rock foundation prevented anyone from digging under the outer walls.
Where We Stayed
DuneDin Hotel
In the heart of the B&B section of Edinburgh, Dunedin Guest House is a great place to stay. The room was VERY comfortable and "homey". The owners were VERY friendly, bathrooms were in the rooms and the breakfast included both cold and hot (made to order) choices. Bus service to the town center is just a SHORT distance down the road and only cost ₤1 per person. All this and the room cost 1/2 the hotel rate. Found in Rick Steves` guide. Highly recommended!
We eat breakfast both mornings at the Novotel. The food was plentiful and the service was great. We had both cold selections (fruit and yogurt) as well as hot food such as eggs and sausage. While nothing fancy, it a good addition to a nice hotel.
This is the first of the "Rick Steves" hotels at which we stayed. If you're not formiliar with RS's choice you find that they are not 5 star hotels, but they are clean, comfortable and in a great location for our visit to Edinburgh.
Novotel Hotel 80 Lauriston Place Edinburgh, EH2 9DE Tel: (+44) 131/656-3500 FAX: (+44) 131/656-3510
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